Machine stitches are formed by the interlocking of an upper thread, coming from a reel, and a lower thread that is wound on to a separate bobbin. For zig-zag stitches the needle moves from side to side instead of going straight up and down.

The key points on the machine are :
The Stitch Length Regulator
This permits changes in stitch length for different sewing jobs. For seaming, the stitch length is usually 2.5mm. For zig-zag stitching the stitch length is lowered to around 1mm to 1.5mm. It is best to try the zig-zag stitch out on a piece of scrap material first. 

The Tension Dial
Every sewing machine has a tension dial control for the upper thread. Most machines also have one for the bobbin thread. These controls increase or decrease the tension on the threads as they are fed through the machine. Too high a setting results in too much tension and too little thread for the stitch. Too low a tension provides too little tension and too much thread. Generally too little thread causes puckering and easily broken stitches. Too much gives a weak seam. Test the stitch tension before starting any project.

Pressure and Feed
Pressure is the force that is exerted on the fabric as it moves under the PRESSER FOOT.
The primary function of the feed, which is controlled by the stitch length regulator, is to move the fabric into position for each stitch. It also holds the fabric layers taught during stitching.

There are separate attachments you can use such as the zipper foot  which enables you to stitch close to the teeth of the zip. 

Do not use your dressmaking scissors for purposes other than cutting fabric, as this will make them blunt. If they need sharpening, take them to a cutter; do not try to sharpen them yourself. Ideally, you should have three or four pairs of scissors for different uses, but to start with you can get by with only two: large shears for cutting out and a pair of small scissors for more detailed work. Special dressmaker's shears and many other types of scissors for left-handed people are available.
 

Small scissors with blades about 5 cm long can be used for many jobs:

cutting threads, snipping out notches, trimming and clipping seam allowances. You should be able to get your thumb and index finger well into the holes with a fair degree of comfort.

Medium-sized shears with bent handles and blades about 10 cm long are better than small scissors for trimming seams and hems, as they take a larger ‘bite’ of the fabric. They can also be used for small cutting-out jobs, such as for bias strips or patchwork pieces. Two or three fingers should fit easily into the lower handle.

Embroidery scissors are good not only for embroidery but also in ordinary sewing, for cutting threads and opening buttonholes. Make sure that the points meet smoothly, without twisting the fabric between them.

Buttonhole scissors are good for cutting out both hand and machine-worked buttonholes. 

MARKING

All marks on paper patterns, such as construction symbols and guidelines should be transferred to the fabric after cutting out the pieces and before unpinning the paper pattern.

Where possible, marks are transferred to the wrong side of the fabric as a precaution against spoiling the right side and for better guidance during making up. There are several ways of marking fabric, some are more temporary than others and some more suited to certain fabrics. They include carbon paper and a tracing wheel, pins and/or chalk and tailor's tacks.
 

Dressmakers’ carbon paper is used with a dressmaker's tracing wheel. It is best used for tracing through lines such as darts, or stitching guides, on to smooth-surfaced fabrics. The paper is placed carbon side down on the wrong side of the fabric, under the paper pattern. The wheel is then drawn with a single stroke through the pattern marking, transferring a line of dots on to the fabric. Dressmakers’ carbon paper is sold in packs of white, blue, yellow, green and red. Choose light colours for dark fabrics and vice versa. Since the dots can only be removed by washing or dry cleaning, select dark colours carefully. The tracing wheel perforates the paper pattern, so if you wish to re-use it, either trace off a duplicate or use an alternative method. When cutting out fabric folded right sides together, place carbon paper above and below the fabric so that both layers are marked simultaneously.

Tailor’s chalk is sold in flat solid blocks or in pencil form, in a variety of colours including white. It rubs off easily so it is best used for marks that will be tacked as soon as the paper pattern is removed. To mark a straight line, fold back the pattern to the line, place a ruler on the fold and mark with the tailor’s chalk.

Pins can be used with tailor’s chalk or alone to mark dots and lines. For single layers, pin through the pattern marks, pushing the pinheads through the tissue, and lifting the paper away. Mark the centre of the pin mark with chalk. You can use the following method for darts on doubled fabric: push pins vertically from the right side of the fabric into the marks. Remove pattern. Turn layers of fabric over, and push more pins from under to top in exactly the same spots, using first pins as guide. Prise the layers apart carefully, and quickly pin together the hanging pins to form darts.

Tailor’s tacks are used to mark construction points, button positions and similar details, after cutting out the fabric and before removing the pattern. Use them especially for transferring marks on to very fine fabrics, rough tweeds and pile surfaces.

For very fine fabrics, use silk thread for tacking, otherwise use double tacking thread in a contrast colour. Make two small stitches through fabric layers leaving a large loop between the stitches. Cut the tacks leaving long ends. Lift off the paper pattern, ease the layers of fabric apart and cut the threads evenly so that equal lengths are left on each layer.

MEASURING

Accurate measuring is vital to making a well fitting garment, and good measuring equipment is therefore essential. The right equipment will help ensure accuracy and speed up the job.

A tape measure is the most important piece of measuring equipment. Plastic coated are best as the plain fabric type will stretch and will not provide an accurate measurement after a while. Metal tips should be included so that the first centimetre or inch does not fray away. A tape measure with both Metric and Imperial markings is most useful. The standard length is usually 60in/150cm.

A metre or yardstick is handy for checking hems and lengthening pattern pieces. The best are made of metal, wooden rulers warp, twist or split along the edge with age.

A steel tape measure, the sort used by carpenters, is very handy for measuring long flat pieces of cloth, and can be used for checking your hem depth single-handedly.

A set square is useful to straighten out the grain in a length before sewing, and for scaling up patterns copied from squared diagrams.

A curve square is an optional piece of equipment for checking the size of armholes, curves, buttonholes, and providing you with a curved line for pattern drafting.

A French curve is the tailor’s piece of equipment for drafting curves on patterns.

PINS AND NEEDLES

For dressmaking you need a variety of pins and a good selection of sewing needles suitable for the different fabrics, threads and types of handsewing involved. Use only clean, smooth pins and needles to avoid catching or marking the fabric with needle or pin holes.

Sewing needles are made of stainless steel. Each type is available in a wide range of sizes - the larger the size number the shorter and finer the needle for English sizing. Choose a needle with an eye suited to the thickness of the thread, and the weight of the fabric you intend to use - it should be large enough for the thread not to become frayed, but not so large that it will leave an unsightly hole.

Pins may be made from steel or brass, either of which may be nickelplated - or from stainless steel. Stainless steel pins are generally better since they are fine, strong and clean to use, whereas nickel-plated pins are often thicker and may leave a black mark on some fabrics.

Ordinary dressmaker’s pins are either 2.5cm or 3 cm long and have flat heads. They are suitable for most fabrics and purposes.

Lace pins, also called ‘wedding dress pins’ - are 2.5cm long. They are made from tempered steel to give extra fine pins with long, sharp points for use on very delicate fabrics. Used extensively for lacy wedding dress fabrics, fine nets and silks and all delicate types of fabrics.

Glass-headed pins have rounded, brightly coloured heads, which make them easy to see and handle. They are normally about 3 cm long. Extra long glass-headed pins are used for hand or machine knits, and may be used for very heavy tweeds and deep-pile fabrics. Similar looking plastic-headed pins should not be used when pressing, as the heat from the iron may affect the plastic.

Ballpoint dressmaker’s pins are like ordinary pins, but have slightly rounded points, so that they can be used on knits without splitting the fabric threads.

Lills are very short pins, 1.4cm in length. They are handy when working on extremely small areas, but they are mainly used for craft work.

Sharps are fine, medium-length needles with small, round eyes and sharp points, used for general hand-sewing.

Betweens, also called ‘quilting needles’ - are similar to sharps but shorter. They are useful for making fine stitches especially in thick fabrics, as they are less likely to bend and easier to handle.

Straw needles are similar to sharps but longer, and are therefore ideal for tacking, gathering and other jobs in which a number of stitches may be taken on to the needle before pulling it through the fabric.

Ballpoint needles are like sharps, but have a slightly rounded point.

They are designed for sewing jersey fabrics, as they will not split or snag the threads.

Beading needles are very thin, in order to pass through the holes of beads and sequins, and quite long, so that several beads or sequins can be threaded and held on the needle at the same time.

 Crewel needles called ‘embroidery needles’, since they are mainly used for this purpose. They are fine needles with sharp points and long eyes for holding embroidery threads.

Chenille needles are available in a wide range od sizes. They are similar to crewel needles but have proportionally longer and wider eyes, this makes them ideal for sewing with thicker threads.

Darners are relatively long, sharp pointed needles with long eyes, mostly used for darning with medium or heavyweight threads. Long darners may be up to 7.5cm long.

Glover’s needles - also called ‘leather needles’ - have wedge-shaped points, which will pierce leather, imitation leather and plastic fabrics without tearing them. They are particularly useful for stitching heavyweight leathers.

Tapestry needles have long, large eyes and round points. Although designed for canvas embroidery, they are sometimes used in dressmaking: for example, a large tapestry needle can be used instead of a bodkin when threading fine cord through a narrow casing.

A needle threader is useful if the thread is fuzzy or the eye very small and difficult to see. First put the flexible wire loop through the eye of the needle, then pass the thread through the loop, and gently pull it with the thread, back through the eye of the needle. ‘Easy threading’ needles are also available.

THREADS

The threads used for sewing need strength, durability and a varying degree of elasticity depending on the fabric being used. The three main types of thread are cotton, silk and synthetic. Thinner and thicker threads in all these substances are made for particular purposes in a wide range of colours, and can add to your sewing possibilities.

A basic guide for choosing the correct thread is to use cotton threads with cotton fabrics, silk threads with pure silk fabrics and synthetic threads with all man-made fabrics. Remember also that it is the closeness and balance of the stitching which gives strength to a seam, and not the thickness of the thread alone.
 
 

Cotton thread can be soft and loosely twisted, as in tacking thread, tightly twisted but with a matt finish for general sewing purposes, and mercerized - a process that adds gloss to cotton thread and enables it to take dyes better. The soft type is mostly used for tacking as its fluffy lightly-twisted texture helps it to hold loosely-joined layers of fabric together well and its relative weakness makes it easy to remove during the making-up stages. Tacking thread breaks easily under tension so it should never be used in a sewing machine.

Mercerized cotton thread is best for cottons and linens and lightweight wools, both for hand and machine work. It is sold in a range of thicknesses, from special heavy duty for bulky fabrics to size 50 for fine/ medium weights.

Silk thread is used for stitching pure silk and other sheer fabrics. It is available in a fairly limited range of colours, but is not always colour fast. Best used for making up fine garments, topstitching and hand embroidery.

Synthetic threads in varying thicknesses are usually made of polyester but one type is made of mixed cotton and synthetic fibres. All-purpose spun polyester can be used on all fabrics but because of its natural elasticity, it is essential for man-made, jersey or stretch fabrics.

PRESSING

Pressing is an important part of dressmaking as the way in which the pieces are pressed during making-up affects the appearance of the garment. Careful pressing gives flat, crisp seams with a minimum of bulk. Pressing is not the same as ironing. It is the use of heat, steam and slight pressure on the fabric in order to shape it as desired after stitching. The movement is different. The iron is not pushed back and forth over the fabric, as in ironing, but put down on the areas being pressed, picked up, and put down again as many times as necessary.
Always press seam and darts before stitching any seams that cross them. This reduces thickness and ensures that the fabric will lie flat where the stitching lines cross. Try to do all the pressing on the wrong side of the fabric.
Remove pins and tacking threads before pressing, as they would leave a mark.
The use of the correct pressing equipment helps to give a garment a professional looking finish.

Iron

The best kind of iron is a steam iron that can be used dry with a damp pressing cloth if desired. You should always use distilled water in the iron or treat tap water with special softening granules. A dry iron used with a damp cloth is satisfactory.

Pressing Cloth

To use a cloth damp, immerse it in water and wring it out well. Keep pressing cloths clean. The pressing cloth will ensure that you do not leave shine and iron marks on the fabric.